My 5hp Powermatic 66 was built in 1988 and is still running like new. I probably could have gotten by with the 3hp model, but I definately have no complaints about this saw. I also own a Powermatic model 60 8" Jointer that was built in 1960. If the quality of that machine is any indication, I will never need to replace this table saw!

Excellent Table saw. Easy to set up, clear instructions. Extremely heavy though, but, I like that, no vibration (you will need a few helpers). The rip guide took a couple of times to align properly, but, not a problem. Built to last. This saw has ripped everything I have thrown at it and doesn't slow down. Clearly built with quality in mind. Have used the Delta and Craftsman line of table saws- they don't even compare. I have the 3-phase 5 HP version. Only drawback was have to install a three phase converter, which wasn't cheap. I am thrilled with this saw and will never buy another one (may never need to, don't think this one will breakdown). If you are trying to decide on a saw, choose this one, you won't be sorry.

I just bought the Powermatic 66 5HP single phase. I was going to get the three phase model, and pick up a phase converter. That way if I ever get into a three phase environment I would be ready to go. I understand the motors are made quite differently internally. Then I found out that a three phase motor runs at about 1/3 less its rated power when it is run on single phase with a converter. So you are getting about 3 usable HP.
br / The single phase 5HP motor weighs about 100 pounds and has a cast iron end (TEFC frame). You could easily call it overkill. I came off of using a single HP old Sears saw, and after blowing breakers, and the thermal safety protection built into the motor (and having to wait for it to cool off and reset) when cutting into inch and a half stock, I didn't want to take any chances with the power, so I went for the 5. I am sure the 3 does the job more than adequately.
br / When building doors, table legs, windows etc, out of 2 or 3 inch hardwoods, you'll be glad you did.
br / By the way, here is a setup tip. My Powermatic 66 was shipped with a dead on flat tabletop. Inside the carton are both of the cast iron extension wings. There is one for the left and one for the right. Once mounted and tweaked to get the seam even all the way across, I noticed that one of them did not create a completely level top. It may only be off by .010 but that is enough to see light coming from under your straightedge.
br / We're not spending all of this money to put up with a slightly off situation. So, what to do? Here it is; Take a piece of aluminum foil, and fold it over a few times, to get a 4 or 8 fold thickness. Then cut a strip of it about 1/4" wide. Loosen the three bolts that hold the extension onto the side, slip the foil shim down into the seam and below the top edge. Retighten your extension, and then check for levelness. If it is off by even the slightest, readjust the thickness of the foil by how many folds you use. Then it will be perfectly, and I mean perfectly even all the way across.
br / The nature of the problem exists because even though the table edge and the extension may be ground perfectly, if it is off by even a few thousandth's, it will magnify itself to hundredths by the time it gets to the outer edge of the extension.
br / Aluminum foil is incredibly thin, so 4 or 8 folds of it, add up to zilch, but it is enough to make your extensions perfectly level. The nice thing is that since the foil is so thin, it doesn't create any gap in the seam across the top. I can't get the pointed tip of a razor blade to go into mine. It's a dead on mating, but that tiny bit of offset is enough to tweak it right on.
br / I bought the Model 66 5 Horsepower 1 phase without the sliding table, so if you would like to read my full review, you can check that one. I just thought that something as relevant as this set up tip would be beneficial. Previous owners may want to check theirs and tweak them in as well. I hope this helps.
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br / Spend the extra amount of money and go Powermatic, it raises the standard.

We got this saw two-years ago in my shop class. We have run everything that you can imagine through it, even pvc. No matter what you run through it, it doesn't slow down. The stock-splitter/Anti-kickback teeth are a great feature to insure that you don't end-up with a board in your stomach. It is a left-tilt saw so that your material doesn't bind against the fence. The Accu-Fence is one of the best fences that I have ever used. It is smooth, and insures accuracy. When you set up the fence, Make sure that you set fence tape right, so that you wont have to ever have to use a ruler. This saw is awesome, and I would recommend it to anyone looking to make a quality investment. Out of five stars, I give this saw ten.

Oh man..., what a saw! So smooth, stable and powerful! I ripped about 40bf of 10/4 maple this morning on this thing, no problem! This thing is noticeably smoother than even the old standby unisaw. Nice...

WARNING!!!! The switch on this unit can be turned on by pressing against it with a nail belt or a pair of Carhart Carpenter Overalls. I saw this happen to a 40 year Master Craftsmen. The older machines had a much safer switch. Be sure to unplug the unit when changing any saw blade. The saw itself is an excellent table saw and is the top of the line for heavy duty table saws. POWERMATIC NEEDS TO INSTALL A SAFER ON OFF SWITCH Jim